How To Install Crown Moulding On Kitchen Cabinets: Step-by-Step

Yes, you can install crown moulding on kitchen cabinets yourself! With patience and the right tools, you can achieve a professional look that elevates your kitchen’s style. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to install cabinet trim like a pro, transforming your kitchen cabinet molding from basic to beautiful. We’ll cover everything from selecting the right wood crown molding cabinets to the final touches of finishing cabinet trim, making crown molding ideas cabinets a reality for your home.

Adding crown molding to kitchen cabinets is a fantastic way to introduce a touch of elegance and a custom feel to your kitchen. It’s a project that, while requiring precision, is absolutely achievable for a motivated DIYer. This detailed guide will break down the entire process, ensuring you have the knowledge and confidence to tackle installing cabinet trim successfully. We’ll explore various techniques, material choices, and tips to help you achieve a polished look for your kitchen cabinet molding.

Image Source: i.ytimg.com

Preparing for Your Crown Moulding Project

Before you pick up a saw or a nail gun, thorough preparation is key. This involves choosing the right materials, gathering your tools, and planning your cuts. Getting these steps right ensures a smoother installation process and a better final result for your cabinet top molding.

Selecting the Right Crown Moulding

The type of crown moulding you choose significantly impacts the final look and the installation process itself. Here are some factors to consider for your kitchen cabinet molding:

Material:
- Wood (e.g., Pine, Poplar, Oak): Offers a classic look and can be painted or stained to match your cabinets. Wood crown molding cabinets are versatile but can be more prone to warping if not properly sealed.
- MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard): A more budget-friendly option that paints exceptionally well. However, it’s less durable than wood and can be damaged by moisture.
- Polyurethane/Foam: Lightweight and resistant to moisture and insects, making it ideal for kitchens. It can be pre-primed for painting and is often easier to cut and install than wood.
Profile: Crown moulding comes in a vast array of profiles, from simple and traditional to ornate and modern. Consider the style of your kitchen and cabinets.
- Simple Cove: A basic, curved profile that’s easy to install and suits many styles.
- Classical Ogee: Features an S-shaped curve, offering a more decorative touch.
- Raked Moulding: Has a straight back, making it easier to cut and fit against the cabinet top molding. This is often a good choice for beginners.
Size: The size of the crown moulding should be proportionate to the height of your cabinets and the overall scale of your kitchen. For standard cabinets, a moulding between 2 and 4 inches in height is common. Too large, and it can overwhelm the cabinets; too small, and it might look insignificant.
Finish: Decide whether you want to paint or stain your crown moulding. If painting, ensure the material you choose is paintable. If staining, opt for a natural wood that takes stain well.

Gathering Your Essential Tools

Having the right tools makes all the difference in achieving a clean, professional finish for your cabinet top molding. Here’s a list of what you’ll likely need:

Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements of your cabinets.
Pencil: For marking cut lines.
Miter Saw (Chop Saw): Essential for making precise angled cuts. A compound miter saw is even better, allowing for bevel cuts.
Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting or nailing.
Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure mounting, if your moulding will extend to the wall.
Level: To ensure your moulding is installed straight.
Caulk Gun and Caulk: For filling gaps and creating a seamless finish.
Wood Glue: For reinforcing joints.
Finishing Nails (16-gauge or 18-gauge): For attaching the moulding.
Air Compressor and Nail Gun: Recommended for a faster and cleaner nail installation.
Hammer and Brad Nailer (if no air compressor): A manual option for nailing.
Wood Filler/Spackle: For filling nail holes.
Sandpaper (various grits): For smoothing surfaces and edges.
Paint or Stain and Brushes/Rollers: For finishing.
Putty Knife: For applying wood filler.
Clamps: To hold pieces together while glue dries or while nailing.
Optional: Coping Saw: Useful for intricate joints if needed.

Planning Your Cuts and Layout

Accurate planning of your cuts is crucial, especially for crown molding kitchen cabinets. The most common challenge is dealing with inside and outside corners.

Understanding Corner Cuts:

Inside Corners: The moulding turns inward.
Outside Corners: The moulding turns outward.

The standard method for cutting crown moulding for corners is using a miter saw. However, crown moulding is typically installed at an angle, meaning you’ll need to adjust your saw settings accordingly.

The Standard 45-Degree Miter Cut:
For simple 90-degree corners (which you won’t have directly on your cabinets but is the principle), you’d cut each piece at 45 degrees. However, crown moulding isn’t flat against the wall and cabinet. It sits at an angle.

The “Against the Fence” Method:
This is the most common and effective technique for installing crown moulding on kitchen cabinets. You’ll be cutting the moulding with its back flat against the saw’s fence, and its top edge against the saw’s base.

Positioning: Place the moulding upside down and backward on your miter saw. The top edge of the moulding should be against the saw fence, and the bottom edge should be against the saw blade.
Inside Corner Cut: Set your miter saw to 31.6 degrees (this is the standard setting for 38-degree crown moulding, which is common). Angle the saw head to the left for the right-hand piece and to the right for the left-hand piece. The long point of the cut should face the inside of the corner.
Outside Corner Cut: The setup is the same, but the long point of the cut will face the outside of the corner.

Miter Saw Settings for Crown Moulding:

Most crown moulding has a spring angle (the angle at which it rests against the wall and ceiling). A common spring angle is 38 degrees. For this, you’ll typically set your miter saw to 31.6 degrees. However, it’s always best to test cut on a scrap piece of moulding to confirm your settings.

Important Tip: Always measure twice and cut once! When measuring for your cuts, add a little extra length to account for any slight inaccuracies or for trimming if a perfect fit isn’t achieved on the first try.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Now that you’re prepared, let’s get started with the actual installation of your crown molding kitchen cabinets. This process requires patience and precision.

Step 1: Measure and Cut Your First Piece

Measure: Accurately measure the length of the cabinet run or section where you’ll be installing the moulding. If it’s a corner, measure from the furthest point of the corner.
First Cut (Straight End): If the moulding is going against a wall or a side cabinet that doesn’t have a corner piece, you’ll make a straight 90-degree cut on one end.
Second Cut (Corner Piece): Now, determine the angle needed for the corner.
- Inside Corner: Place your moulding upside down and backward on the saw. Set your miter saw to 31.6 degrees and cut with the blade angled to the left (for the piece that will go on the right side of the corner). The long point of the cut should point towards the inside of the corner.
- Outside Corner: For an outside corner, set your miter saw to 31.6 degrees and cut with the blade angled to the right (for the piece that will go on the left side of the corner). The long point of the cut should point towards the outside of the corner.

Pro Tip: For a crisp finish on exposed ends that meet a wall, consider using a scarf joint for a seamless transition if you have a very long run.

Step 2: Fit the First Piece and Make Adjustments

Dry Fit: Hold the cut piece of moulding in place against the cabinets. Check if the angled cut fits snugly into the corner.
Adjust: If there’s a small gap, you may need to slightly adjust your miter saw angle or trim a tiny sliver off the edge. Remember to always make small adjustments when trimming.

Step 3: Install the First Piece

Apply Glue: Apply a thin bead of wood glue to the mitered end that will connect to the next piece.
Nail into Place:
- Using a Nail Gun: Hold the moulding firmly in place. Use your nail gun to drive finishing nails through the moulding and into the cabinet top or face frame. Aim for nails every 12-16 inches along the length of the moulding, and also into any supportive cleats you might have installed.
- Using a Hammer: If you don’t have a nail gun, carefully hammer finishing nails through the moulding. Be sure to hold the moulding securely to prevent it from shifting. You might want to pre-drill small pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting.
Ensure Flush Fit: Make sure the top edge of the moulding sits flush against the cabinet top or any support cleat.

Step 4: Measure, Cut, and Install Subsequent Pieces

Measure for the Next Piece: Measure the distance from the end of your installed moulding to the next corner or end point. Remember to account for the angle of the miter cut.
Cut the Next Piece: Make the appropriate miter cut for the next corner or end. For an inside corner, you’ll make a complementary 31.6-degree cut. For an outside corner, you’ll also use a 31.6-degree cut, but in the opposite direction.
Dry Fit and Adjust: Fit the new piece against the installed moulding and the corner. Make any necessary adjustments.
Glue and Nail: Apply wood glue to the mitered joint and nail the moulding securely in place, just as you did with the first piece.

Step 5: Tackling Corners and Transitions

The real skill in install cabinet trim comes in making those corner joints look seamless.

Inside Corners:
* For a perfect inside corner, one piece of moulding will sit flush against the cabinet, and the other will “cope” into it. To cope, you’ll cut one piece with a 45-degree miter (on your saw, angled to cut away the inside of the corner). Then, using a coping saw, you’ll carefully cut along the profile of the moulding, following the curve. This creates a snug fit that hides any imperfections.
* Alternatively, and often simpler for DIYers, is to make two precise 31.6-degree miter cuts that meet in the corner. The key here is accuracy.

Outside Corners:
* For outside corners, you’ll typically make two 31.6-degree miter cuts that meet. Ensure the long points of the miters meet perfectly at the corner.

Joining Long Runs:
* When you need to join two pieces of moulding along a straight run, use a scarf joint. This is a long, angled cut (usually 22.5 degrees) on the end of each piece, which are then glued and nailed together. This creates a stronger, less visible joint than a simple butt joint.

Step 6: Finishing Touches for Cabinet Top Molding

Once all your crown moulding is installed, it’s time to make it look like a seamless part of your kitchen.

Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler or spackle to fill all nail holes. Let it dry completely.
Sand: Lightly sand the filled areas until they are smooth and flush with the moulding. Also, sand any rough edges or minor imperfections.
Caulk Gaps: Apply a thin bead of paintable caulk along any gaps between the moulding and the cabinet, or between the moulding and the ceiling/wall. Smooth the caulk with a damp finger or a caulk smoothing tool for a clean line.
Paint or Stain: Once the caulk is dry, paint or stain your crown moulding to match or complement your cabinets. Apply multiple thin coats for the best finish.

Advanced Techniques and Crown Moulding Ideas Cabinets

For those looking to go the extra mile or seeking specific aesthetic effects, here are some advanced techniques and crown moulding ideas cabinets. These can truly elevate your kitchen’s design.

Creating Custom Cabinet Molding

Achieving a truly custom look often involves a combination of standard moulding and custom-cut pieces or layering.

Layering Mouldings: You can layer smaller decorative mouldings over a base crown moulding to create a more elaborate and custom cabinet top molding. This allows you to mix and match profiles for a unique appearance.
Building Up Moulding: Sometimes, you might want a bolder statement than a single piece of moulding can provide. You can build up a more substantial look by layering two or more different mouldings together. For example, a simple base moulding could be paired with a smaller decorative cove or bead moulding placed above it.

Incorporating Lighting

Integrated lighting is a popular and sophisticated addition to kitchen cabinets.

LED Strip Lights: Crown moulding provides an ideal space to hide LED strip lights. These can be installed on the top edge of the moulding, shining upwards towards the ceiling. This creates a soft, ambient glow that illuminates the upper part of your kitchen and highlights the crown moulding itself.
Placement: Ensure the LED strips are positioned so they are not visible from below, creating a diffused light effect. You might need to add a small lip or a second piece of moulding to conceal the light source effectively.

Decorative Elements and Accents

Beyond the standard installation, consider adding decorative elements to your crown molding kitchen cabinets.

Corner Blocks: For a more traditional look, you can add decorative corner blocks where the crown moulding meets at inside corners. These are small, often carved, pieces of wood that add a focal point.
Risers and Plinth Blocks: While more common on baseboards, similar decorative elements can be used to add visual interest where your cabinet moulding transitions to a wall or a different cabinet section.

Choosing Wood Crown Molding Cabinets for Durability and Style

When selecting wood crown molding cabinets, consider the species of wood.

Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Cherry): These are more durable, resistant to damage, and offer a richer grain for staining. They are generally more expensive but provide a premium look and feel.
Softwoods (Pine, Poplar): More budget-friendly and easier to work with, but can be more prone to dents and scratches. Poplar is a good choice for painting as it has a smooth, fine grain.

Exploring Crown Molding Ideas Cabinets for Different Kitchen Styles

Modern Kitchens: Opt for sleek, simple profiles with clean lines. Consider MDF or polyurethane for a painted finish, or smooth-grained woods like maple.
Traditional Kitchens: Embrace more ornate profiles with detailed carvings or ogee shapes. Cherry or oak wood crown molding cabinets would be excellent choices here.
Farmhouse Kitchens: Shaker-style or simple cove mouldings in painted wood (like pine or poplar) or a slightly distressed finish work well.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Here are some common questions people have when installing crown moulding on kitchen cabinets:

Q1: Do I need to use a cleat for crown moulding on cabinets?

While not always strictly necessary, installing a cleat (a small piece of wood) along the top of the cabinets or against the wall provides a more secure mounting surface for your crown moulding, especially for heavier wood crown molding cabinets. It also helps to ensure a straight installation and can make the angled cuts easier to manage.

Q2: What is the best way to join crown moulding in corners?

The most common and effective methods are using precise miter cuts or coping. For DIYers, mastering accurate miter cuts on a miter saw is often the most straightforward approach. Ensuring your saw is properly calibrated and practicing on scrap pieces is crucial for clean corner joints.

Q3: Can I install crown moulding on cabinets that don’t reach the ceiling?

Yes, absolutely. Crown moulding can be installed on cabinets of any height. It adds a finished look regardless of whether the cabinets extend to the ceiling. You’ll just need to ensure your cuts and measurements are precise to the cabinet dimensions.

Q4: How do I deal with uneven walls or ceilings when installing cabinet top molding?

A little bit of caulk and a lot of patience are your best friends here. For small gaps caused by uneven surfaces, a good quality paintable caulk can fill the void and create a seamless appearance. For larger imperfections, you might need to adjust your moulding slightly or consider shims behind the moulding where necessary, but be very cautious with this. Always try to maintain a consistent reveal where the moulding meets the cabinet and ceiling.

Q5: What kind of nails should I use for finishing cabinet trim?

For most crown moulding installation on kitchen cabinets, 16-gauge or 18-gauge finishing nails are ideal. They are thin enough to minimize damage to the moulding and can be easily countersunk or filled.

Q6: How far apart should I place the nails?

Generally, place nails every 12 to 16 inches along the length of the moulding. Ensure you are nailing into the cabinet structure (face frames or stiles) for a secure hold. If you have a cleat, nail into the cleat as well.

Q7: Can I use polyurethane moulding instead of wood?

Yes, polyurethane moulding is an excellent alternative, especially in a kitchen environment. It’s resistant to moisture, insects, and won’t warp or crack easily. It can also be pre-primed and painted to match your cabinets, offering a durable and attractive finish.

Q8: What is the correct miter angle for crown moulding?

The specific miter angle depends on the “spring angle” of the moulding, which is the angle the moulding sits at when placed against a wall and ceiling. A common spring angle for crown moulding is 38 degrees, which requires a 31.6-degree miter cut on your saw. Always check the manufacturer’s specifications or perform a test cut to confirm the correct angle for your specific moulding.

By following these steps and tips, you’ll be well on your way to beautifully installed crown moulding on your kitchen cabinets, adding a professional and custom touch to your home.